There is no question the Lower East Side still has relics of its historic past when you sample the local dining landmarks such as Katz's Deli (open since 1888). The area that stretches from the Brooklyn Bridge to Houston Street is also a stop for modern living. Blue, is a striking new condominium designed by architect Bernard Tschumi, and offers 24-hour doorman service, a roof terrace, and a cold storage locker for Fresh Direct deliveries.

Renters can find a selection of historic walkups, mostly without doormen. Buyers seeking space should head down to the Grand Street Co-ops, a collection of 4,500 apartments - some with outdoor space and/or views of the East River.

Going out? Options include teany, the 98-varities tearoom co-owned by popster Moby; the Delancey Lounge, a club with live bands and DJs, and Schiller's Liquor Bar, where the wines are rated 'good,' 'decent,' and 'cheap.'

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